Hi Folks: As someone that
exclusively collects Vacheron & Constantin watches, I am often amazed at
the fakes and frankensteins that appear on eBay. Vacheron's vintage
watches are enjoying new interest from collectors so it naturally follows
that opportunists try to take advantage. Here is a short guide on what to
look for to ensure your best chances of obtaining the dream wristwatch you
THINK you are bidding on:
Case: On the inside of the caseback will be found the Vacheron
& Constantin name and logo, the Maltese Cross. On earlier models
(pre-1950's) there will be a six digit case number. Later models
will also have a 4 digit reference number, and rarely an additional hyphenated
number is added for special versions. The last three digits of the case
number are often repeated on the inside rim of the case body, confirming
that the caseback is original to the watch. Most Vacheron &
Constantin cases are of precious metals. During WWII, more steel or steel
and gold models were produced.
Dial: Dials are the most frequently modified part of a vintage
watch. A repainted Vacheron & Constantin dial can be identified
by the lack of an accent above the second "e" in Geneve, also
sometimes misspelled "Geneva", and/or missing "SWISS"
(early) or "Swiss Made" (later) under the 6 o'clock position, and/or
a missing "&" ampersand in Vacheron & Constantin
(pre-1974). Due to the extremely fine printing, these features are often
not duplicated on repainted dials. Other signs are crudely replated
metallic finishes and improperly applied index markers. A fresh dial on a
vintage watch should always require further investigation.
Movement: Vintage Vacheron & Constantin movements after
1938 were sourced from Jaeger LeCoultre raw ebauches, then modified,
decorated and given Vacheron calibre designations. A six digit movement
number will be stamped on the base plate, often with the Vacheron &
Constantin logo. Early chronographs featured Valjoux base
movements. The caliber number will also be stamped and decorated in
gold. The finish of vintage Vacheron & Constantin movements is outstanding
and clearly seperates them from lesser manufacturers. Both the case and
movement numbers are recorded in Vacheron's archives and can be confirmed by
contacting the Heritage Department through their website, but be prepared to
wait. It is with movements that the greatest chances for frankenstein
modifications occurs. Carefully examine wear to screws and bridges to see
if the movement was dissassembled. Check consistency of finish and
alignment of Geneva stripes between parts to ensure they were assembled
and finished together. Fine regulators are often broken so compare the
movement you are considering with other photos found on the internet to confirm
all features are present.
Strap/Buckle: Vacheron did not adopt the Maltese Cross buckle
until the late 1980's. A traditional square buckle was used prior to this
and is more desirable if still present. Another frequently replaced item
is the strap. A genuine Vacheron replacement is preferred but often not
available. Both the buckle and strap are considered maintenance items
that do not diminish value, however, the presence of original items can enhance
collector's value.
Papers: Original papers are in French or English. A
Certificate of Guarantee accompanied the watch when new and lists the case
and movement numbers, jewel count, date of purchase and type of
metal. A Certificate of Authenticity can be obtained for a vintage watch
when the original certificate has been lost. The process involves
sending the watch to the Vacheron factory, unlike Patek's Extract from the
Archives, but provides absolute proof of genuineness. Details can be
found on the Vacheron website.
LeCoultre Myth: During the 1950's, Vacheron was marketed
in the United States by Wittnauer, which also distributed LeCoultre. Due
to US import laws, they were required to have importation marks
stamped on the movements of these "non-American" watches, thus the
letters VXN appear on both Vacheron and LeCoultre movements imported into
the United States. This does not mean they are the same! However,
for a brief time this relationship was advanced by Wittnauer to enhance sales
of LeCoultre and is now used by sellers for the same purpose. An
examination of the movement caliber and finish is all that is required to
highlight the difference.
There are several internet watch forums where you can learn
more about the fine points of vintage Vacheron & Constantin
wristwatches. Due to the small production numbers and
hand-built nature of the brand, there are always oddities and exceptions to
these general rules. While this makes vintage Vacheron an exciting
brand to collect, it does require extra dilligence and research to avoid
mistakes. Remember, patience is a watch collector's best friend.
You are welcome to visit my Vacheron & Constantin
collector's site, The "&" Ampersand, at
http://ticktalk.shawwebspace.ca.
Regards, Tick-Talk ©2009
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